Mallorca
One of the perks of living in the UK is the ease of access to other areas of the world that doesn’t require breaking the bank and a 12+ hour flight, or two… We’d booked these flights near the start of winter to escape the chill air and greyness that had started to encompass Cardiff. And it was an escape much needed.
I don’t recommend skipping the details, but if you must, jump here:
Cala Magraner
‘Cueva’ crag in Cala Magraner
Mallorca is beautiful. On the first day we had hired out a car for the week and checked into our Airbnb surrounded by Spanish farms and flora. Shortly afterwards, we explored an area for sport climbing and after a roughly 30min walk towards the ‘Cala Magraner’ crag, a bay had opened in front of us. Its water gleaming and lapping gently on the shore in shelter from the wind. The burst of sunlight was probably the first bit of sun we had seen in weeks! We climbed on the ‘Pipricot’ face for a few hours, but the ultimate goal was to conquer deep water soloing which Mallorca is renowned for.
Climbers to the likes of Chris Sharma have given Mallorca its reputation by frequenting psicobloc. Unfortunately, as it was winter at the time, the weather wasn’t as reliable as we’d hope. So, the search for attempting deep water soloing for the first time had resulted in jitters. The first place we attempted had waves crashing up the rock and the wind howled in warning despite the illusion of sunshine. I’m sure I’m being dramatic, but in trying something new, you have expectations of what the conditions should be and what level you’re comfortable at. This wasn’t it. So, we meandered on home disappointed by our efforts, but enjoyed a stunning walk nonetheless.
But soon enough, the day arrived. Dead calm, the sky was blue and despite a little chill in the air, the heat of the sun was enough. We had parked up on the road generally reserved for beach parking and walked down a long driveway. We climbed through a fence and presumably someone’s’ backyard to reach a private but popular beach. We only had to walk a little further alongside cliff edges to another little bay. The psicobloc was just across from us. Two huge coves sitting side by side with a selection of climbs both in, and amongst it. This was the notorious ‘Cala Barques’ crag.
Cala Barques
The first, and the ‘easiest’ option was a 6a+/19 traverse titled Metrosexual Easy, which was a great way to ease in as the fall was less than 2 meters to the water depending on the tide. I tried this one again, and again, and again. And I regret to say that I still couldn’t crack it. Not climbing outside as much in the previous few weeks had had this effect.
The crux was completely blind as your head is blocked by a mound and your foot is fumbling for the right hold just above the water line. At this point, you’ve sweated all the chalk off and holding on for dear life purely because you don’t want to have to start the route all over again! As I was trying, and failing, some local climbers had arrived and breezed right through as a warm up. They were here for the 7a+/24 and 7a/23 called Metrosexual and Bisexual respectively.
Altogether, it was an awesome camaraderie of Kiwi’s, Italians, Spaniards, and a Brit. We didn’t know each other but we were shouting, cheering and rooting for whoever could make it the furthest, and there were some strong climbers here. I gave it a go and this felt like true soloing. Every part of your body is engaged as you dangle on an overhang with the water lapping below you. I didn’t get very far, but that wasn’t the point. It was a rush of concentration, support, confidence and doubt all in in one. It was just pure athletic fun. We stayed there all day until our bodies couldn’t take it anymore. Damp, and sun-kissed, we headed home for the reward of a glass of red. We’d deserved it.
Attempting Metrosexual
Attempting Metrosexual Easy - see if you can spot me!
Getting There and Accommodation
Only a short flight from anywhere in Europe or the UK, Mallorca lies off the coast of Spain. I would 1000% recommend a car as getting to crags are a little more remote, as well as having access to the breadth of climbing both coastal and inland.
The main city is Palma, but there are cheaper options in more rural areas which will also give you just as much access to the rest of the island, if not, more. We had hired an airbnb fairly inland, but as its a small enough island to drive in a single day, we had even access across the board to any crags throughout Mallorca.
Rock and Routes
Quality limestone rock but be warned, some routes have razor sharp holds and potential sandbagging to be had! However, it doesn’t take much to look over these minor flaws as Mallorca has something for everyone. From single-pitch, multi-pitch to deep water soloing. All embellished with juggy holds, overhangs, crack climbing and plenty of roofs scattered all around the island.
Deep Water Soloing –
6a+/19 Metrosexual Easy (traverse)
7a+/24 Metrosexual
7a/23 Bisexual (traverse)
Sport Climbing –
6a+/19 La Isla Bonita (60m, 3 pitches)
According to myself, this route is sandbagged to the max! Nearing towards a 6b/+/20. However, it’s an awesome climb. The rock on the third pitch is almost like vertical waves, causing you to contort like you’re climbing a door frame.
Unique formations on La Isla Bonita
Tips for Climbing
If this is also your first time deep-water soloing, please be aware of your water safety and limitations. Conditions can change relatively quickly so you would do well to keep an eye on the weather and swells.
Also, it is possible to climb with your chalk bag over water but expect your chalk to get wet after your first fall. It’s a good idea to either bring more than one bag, or just leave it on the shore and chalk up before your ascent.
What else is there to do?
Palma is a beautiful city to visit. Despite the rest of the island being mostly closed, Palma’s streets were bustling and don’t forget the cathedral!
Alternatively, if you’ve opted to hire a car go for a drive around the island. you never know what hidden gems you’ll find, particularly through the mountains around Sóller way.
Palma Cathedral
Mallorca is an absolute gem of a place. It’s unfortunate that we were there during the off season as we couldn’t explore much else as most places were closed. Fortunately, our goal was to climb and it didn’t disappoint. The crisp clear waters, the psicobloc and the crags more inland kept us busy for days. When the weather was less than ideal there was always an alternate crag more sheltered or just plain out of the way of downpours. From deep water soloing, sport climbing or just a sun bathe on the beach, you won’t regret it.