Arco
Situated in northern Italy, nearby the hotspot of Riva del Garda, Arco sits within a valley surrounded by beautiful mountains, olive groves and vineyards. And you bet this is another destination calling all climbers.
View from the top!
And of course, the view from Lake Garda.
This was the place for what could be called my first ever ‘epic’. In the late afternoon, we had set off on the route, Aspettando Martino, where we had waited all day for the intense heat to ease in order to try the cruisy 5c/18 multi-pitch. The first few pitches were chossy and polished to a shine, but the final 3 pitches were top class climbing. The exposure on the forest below was unreal! But, while I can handle exposure, the crux was a challenging and narrow off-width which was the first time I realised that I may be a little claustrophobic. My helmet was knocking on rock everywhere I tried to look, resulting in limited movement. Of course, the longer I floundered, the more my arms pumped out in exertion. Eventually, I fell in frustration. But, I made it through the pitch albeit with a few swear words sprinkled along the way and recovered on a cosy ledge.
For me, this range of emotion is normal as I’m still trying to navigate the climbing headspace of dangling on the side of a cliff. Fair to say that it can take some adjustment. However, upon reaching the top of the last pitch, the rewarding view never fails to amaze and any lingering fear is dissipated.
But, what was so ‘epic’ about it? Every climber will have that adventure that makes you question some choices in life, and for us, it was the descent. The guide had stated that we would need to traverse across a ledge before connecting with the Via Ferrata. From here, you can either top out, or downclimb. What the notes had failed to mention was that the traverse was across a very narrow and exposed ledge with minimal bolts (depending if you find them). Even for the athletically nimble, loose rock underfoot could mean all the difference. So, we had tied the rope between us, and set a few tree anchors along the way ‘just in case’… After a few stumbles and tense conversations, we had finally reached the Via Ferrata after 2 hours! By this time, it was dusk. We barely had any time to regret not bringing our headtorches as we picked up the pace to clamber down the steep cliffside. All in all, after 3 hours of climbing, it took another 3+ hours to reach solid ground. The stress of disembarking our ‘fun’ route of the trip resulted in a race against nightfall.
Overlooking the campsite.
Getting There and Accommodation
Arco is situated in northern Italy, only a few kilometres west from the stunning town of Riva del Garda, nestled against Lake Garda. We had just come down through the Alps past Innsbruck, then took a bus from Trento straight to Arco.
We stayed at one of the cheaper campsites ‘Campeggio Arco/Camping Arco’ but not to be confused with its more expensive neighbour, ‘Camping Zoo.’ As far as a campsite goes, its ideal. Consisting of mostly sheltered camping spots, free Wi-Fi, a little grocer on-site and sitting underneath the gaze of the huge Monte Colodri. You only need to cross the street before a bush walk takes you to the base, surpassing a few boulders on the way.
Feeling at home in Camping Arco
Rock and Routes
Classic European limestone meets forest and olive groves at the base of some impressive routes. However, Arco’s popularity is exemplary through its severe polish on many routes which will challenge even some of the hardiest climbers. But gorgeous scenery and technical climbs is what keeps this as one of the top climbing destinations in Europe. In saying that, there’s also potential for some major sandbagging.
You will find the majority of routes in the Valle del Sarca Valley but the Calvario crag was one we frequented often as it spent the morning in shade.
As much as I would like to recommend routes, a majority of the ones we climbed were polished and sandbagged. Unfortunately, while the area was amazing, the climbs we did specifically were good but not 3-star climbing.
My partner climbing at Calvario.
Tips for Climbing
For such a large wall, there are climbs for everyone including sport climbs, multi-pitch, Via Ferrata and some boulders. However, it’s worth noting that a lot of these routes were established a long time ago! This means bold starts with high bolting, run-outs, polish, and questionable grading. Do not be discouraged if your 7b/25 doesn’t match an Arco’s 7a/23, there’s no question that old school climbers were hardcore.
Additionally, consider what time of year you’re going. We had arrived in peak summer time which meant we had to be strategic at climbing at certain times. If you started a multi-pitch too late in the morning, the rock quickly becomes hot to touch and sweat becomes your number one enemy. But if you started too late in the afternoon, you may get caught out in sundown like we did.
Lastly, ask around! There are multiple places to climb, not just the cliffs of Monte Colodri. We became friendly with some local climbers who took us to this beautifully hidden gorge. The crag – La Trincee, lies in the Nago Canyon following an hours’ walk. Unfortunately, due to the danger of high rockfall, access is now limited.
Looking pretty hot and bothered in the Nago Canyon.
What else is there to do?
On those hot days where climbing isn’t too much of an option, the town is only a mere walk away with plenty to look at. For a place proclaimed as a climbing town, you will find all sorts of climbing dedicated stores such as La Sportiva and local small businesses like Parvat.
Alternatively, you could always hire out a bike and cycle to the lake and explore the larger town of Riva Del Garda. They have museums and galleries but especially, keep an eye out for events! We had gone when summer festivals were in full swing and (conveniently) got caught in the massive Arco street food festival. Multiple stages and performers were set up around town and sangria stalls lined the streets. The place was absolutely heaving!
Last but not least, take the time to go to the Castello di Arco! I stand by it being one of the better castles we’ve been to and the views speak for itself.
Castello di Arco.
Overlooking olive groves.
Ultimately, Arco was probably one of my favourite places to visit. It was a beautiful town, the food was amazing, the campsite hit all our needs and the climbing had so much variety. Honestly, I just had a great week all around. Arco encompasses the adventure, gastronomy, and sightseeing that Italy has to offer and anyone would be lucky enough to spend a bit of time here whether a climber or not.